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The Italian tailors have developed a ‘sixth-sense’ for their craft becoming so perceptive of the body morphology of a client, that curiously, fewer fittings than usual are necessary to get an exceptional fit. We invite you on a journey discovering the details that distinguish the jacket of the Neapolitan tailoring school, which is also able to tell a story full of fascinating details, suspended between wretched and nobility, creativity, style, and aestheticism.

The Neapolitan Jacket, born between the alleys of via Toledo and via Chiaia, is a symbol of expressive uniqueness and timeless elegance, known and loved all over the world for the lightness of its fabrics and its excellent fit.

By wearing a Neapolitan jacket, it is possible to realize the extraordinary lightness of the product, which arises from the absence of shoulder paddings and the presence of light canvas and horsehair in the interior of the jacket, which is also unlined or, at most, with half lining. The cut of the Neapolitan jacket is generally shorter than that of the English jacket, also in terms of sleeves, whose length is such as to make the cuffs of the shirt visible.

Among the details that define the Neapolitan origin of a jacket, the shoulder is again a key element, as it is for the English jacket. Without any constraints, the Neapolitan shoulder follows the natural line of the body, culminating in “a camicia” stitched armholes, that is, with the “rimesso” (the fabric in excess to the seam of a garment) put under the shoulder and is stopped with an external seam. Being the upper part of the sleeve, the so-called “tromba”, wider than the small and adherent armhole of the jacket, it will have an excess of fabric responsible for the formation of those distinctive pleats of the Neapolitan jacket and called “repecchie” in the local jargon. The result is a sleeve defined as “manica a mappina”, that can accompany daily gestures. For more formal-looking jackets, the natural shoulder of the Neapolitan jacket is accompanied by a “rollino” (a little roll of padding). Further peculiarities of the Neapolitan jacket are the unusual and rounded shape of the so-called “pignata” patch pocket and the “boat-shaped” breast pocket that flips upwards. The buttons of the sleeves overlap slightly, and, for this reason, they are called “kissed buttons”.

Turning to the shape with which a Neapolitan jacket is presented, this is commonly a two-button single-breasted jacket, with very wide peak lapel and with two side pences, or “riprese”, that extend to the bottom of the jacket. Typical of the Neapolitan tailoring is the so-called three-roll-two (“tre bottoni stirato a due”) construction for the single-breasted jacket, which has a hand-rolled lapel, which makes it possible to see only the two lower buttons, with the first, therefore, hidden and whose corresponding buttonhole mounted upside down, that is the final touch of a tailored garment in which nothing is left to chance.

From what has been said, it emerges the profile of an extremely well-kept jacket from the processing technique and the search for details point of view, and which, by harmoniously pandering the body movements, gives, at the same time, an elegant and relaxed appearance. Therefore, the Neapolitan jacket is well suited to be the complement of a suit that should not be worn in too formal contexts, giving its best when made with fabrics such as linen, solaro or gabardine.

Ultimately, the Neapolitan jacket can be considered a condensation of tradition, genuine passion, and craftsmanship, whose details are the letters of a tailored language that is coded based on a unique lifestyle, which reflects the Neapolitan essence.

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